Scotland: North Coast 500, Isle of Skye, & Outer Hebrides motorcycle tour

If a picture truly paints a thousand words, the landscapes of the Scottish Highlands would fill all 4,224 pages of Harry Potter (much of which was filmed here). Blessed with quite simply the most sensational landscapes in Britain, Scotland’s rugged northern Highlands and narrow, twisty roads lend themselves to exhilarating motorcycle touring, even under the darkest of brooding skies. 

Riding Scotland's "North Coast 500" route proves wilder than your wildest dreams as it twines through the Highlands like fine whisky pouring through heather. Carving a course around the north coat of Scotland, the 500-mile circuit taps the classic road trip desire for epic scenery, adventure, and freedom. No wonder serious bikers are drawn to the NC500 like Alfa Romeo drivers to Italy's Amalfi Coast. Plus, off the western coast is the Isle of Skye, considered among the most dramatically picturesque places in all Britain, with its breathtaking physical formations and elemental battered landscapes of epic grandeur. And the Outer Hebridean Isles of Harris & Lewis beckon with their prehistoric sites and Harris Tweed weavers. 

We’ll visit in late October, when the autumn colors are at their most spectacular and the lingering sunrises and sunsets offer sensational "golden hour" light!

Born and raised in England, motojournalist and professional tour leader Christopher has used his knowledge of Scotland based on his recent magazine assignments and as editor & photographer of the National Geographic Traveler Scotland guidebook to create a sensational 11-day itinerary that incorporates a dream-list of destinations. Using his contacts gleaned from leading annual 'Scottish Highland, Isle of Skye, & Outer Hebrides' photo tours, Chris has infused the itinerary with welcome breaks that include a whisky distillery tasting and experiences with locals, from shepherds herding their flocks with sheepdogs to the crofters of Harris & Lewis. Plus, Chris' sister and cousin live there!

I feel a special connection to the Scottish Highlands (and not simply because my sister and cousin live there), ever since first motorcycling the North Coast 500 route by Indian Roadmaster on assignment for Robb Report. Please join me and experience the mystical appeal of this superbly photogenic and immensely soul-satisfying part of the world. Plus, you’ll get to meet my adorable sister… and my cousin, who guides at Urquhart Castle! - CHRISTOPHER P. BAKER

ITINERARY (SUBJECT TO CHANGE)

Day 1 EDINBURGH

Afternoon meet and briefing in Edinburgh – the beautiful “Athens of the North.”
OVERNIGHT: Royal Mile Hotel, Edinburgh

Day 2 EDINBURGH – INVERNESS / @ 285 km

Transfer to the Edinburgh suburb of Dalkeith to pick up our BMWs. Then leave Edinburgh behind as we head north via the original Scottish capital of Perth, and continue through the Cairngorms National Park to Culloden—site of the seminal battle of the Jacobite Rebellion in 1745. Continue into Inverness.
OVERNIGHT: Royal Highland Hotel OR Bunchrew House Hotel, Inverness

Day 3 INVERNESS – TONGUE / @ 338 km

Today follow the iconic ‘The North Coast 500’ bikers’ route to John O’Groats, the most northerly point in the British Isles. Then turn west through the lonesome and spectacular coastal heathlands to Tongue.
OVERNIGHT: The Tongue Hotel, Tongue?

Day 4 DURNESS – TORRIDON / @ 288 km

Turn south and follow the North Coast 500 through spectacular landscapes, including some technically challenging terrain on the ultra-scenic secondary road via Drumbeg and Lochinver through the remote Assynt Peninsula. After lunch in Ullapool, we’ll continue via the ‘West Coast Route’ via Poolewe and majestic Glen Torridon to Torridon.
OVERNIGHT: Torridon Lodge, Torridon

Day 4 TORRIDON – ISLE OF SKYE / @ 175 km

Today, we turn west and circle the Applecross Peninsula—a sensational ride of full of sweepers, twisties, and fast straights, culminating in the switchback climb and descent over the Beleach na Ba: the United Kingdom’s third-highest mountain road pass. We then ride to Kyle of Lochalsh and Eilaen Donan Castle (perhaps Britain’s most photogenic castle) and over the bridge to the beautiful Isle of Skye.
OVERNIGHT: Uig Hotel, Uig OR Royal Hotel, Portree

Day 5 ISLE OF SKYE / @ 150 km

Our circuit of the Isle of Skye provides a sense of just how rugged and deserted Scotland can be. The dark brooding Cullin mountains dominate our lonesome route, with stops to visit Dunvegan (the oldest continuously inhabited castle in Scotland), Neist Lighthouse, a sheepskin tannery, and the Quirang.
OVERNIGHT: Uig Hotel, Uig OR Royal Hotel, Portree

Day 6 ISLE OF SKYE – ISLE OF HARRIS & LEWIS @100 km

This morning take the ferry from Uig to Tarbert, on the Isle of Harris. We'll then ride the short distance via Luskentyre—arguably the most beautiful beach in Britain--and other beaches with sands the color of Valspar Perfection. We'll arrive our hotel in Stornoway with plenty of free time to explore this charming  town.
OVERNIGHT: The Cabarfeidh Hotel, Stornoway

Day 7 ISLE OF HARRIS & LEWIS @150 km

Spend a full day making a circuit of the rugged Isle of Lewis his morning, with exciting sweepers and endless twisties adding to the pleasure of exploring such historic sites as the 4,000-year-old Callandish Standing Stones, Mangersta sea stacks and beach, and Gearrannan Blackhouse village. 
OVERNIGHT: The Cabarfeidh Hotel, Stornoway

Day 8 ISLE OF HARRIS & LEWIS – ISLE OF SKYE @100 km

We'll return to Tarbert in time for an educational tour and whisky tasting at the Isle of Harris distillery--perfectly positioned next to the dock for our two-hour ferry ride back to Uig, on the Isle of Skye. We'll check into our hotel and spend the rest of the day relaxing. 
Uig Hotel, Uig OR Royal Hotel, Portree

Day 9 ISLE OF SKYE – LOCH NESS – OBAN / @ 350 km

Back to the mainland today as we ride through gorgeous Glen Shiel to Loch Ness. We’ll lunch at Urquhart Castle, in Drumnadrochit, where Chris' cousin is a tour guide. Then ride south along Loch Ness and Loch Lochy. We’ll pass beneath Ben Nevis—the highest peak in the British Isles—and through the magnificent Glen Coe (stopping to visit the site of the massacre in 1692) to reach Oban.
OVERNIGHT: Perle Oban Hotel, Oban

Day 10 OBAN – EDINBURGH / @ 230 km

Head east today through the rolling Trossachs National Park and along the “bonnie bonnie banks of Loch Lomond,” then via Stirling—with its magnificent hilltop castle—to return to Edinburgh for a farewell dinner.
OVERNIGHT: Royal Mile Hotel, Edinburgh

Day 11 DEPART

Transfer to Edinburgh airport for your departure.

READ CHRIS'S ARTICLES ON ROAD-TESTING THE INDIAN ROADMASTER ON THE NC500...

Australian Road Rider
Robb Report
Motorcycle Consumer News
Wow! Magazine

Photographs are copyright Christopher P. Baker and may not be reproduced without permission